The Long Road Home

Well, it's time for the long road home. I've travelled almost 14,000 miles so far, but I have another 9,200 miles to go before the day is over. In 29 hours, I will arrive home in the middle of a Vancouver night and will climb into bed for a well needed rest. But before I get there, I have a 17 hour flight from Doha to New York, with a stop for petrol in Geneva. Once in New York, I have a little more than four hours to transfer from Newark to JFK, where I will to connect Cathay Pacific's five-and-a-half hour flight to Vancouver.

Where in the world is Doha?

When I landed at Doha, a car was waiting to transfer me to the terminal. I looked at the outside temperature gauge on the car’s dash. It read 50 degrees (122 Fahrenheit). Now the car was sitting on the tarmac for some time, but still the outside temperature was probably pushing 45 degrees. I didn’t try frying an egg on the sidewalk, but I bet I could have made an omelet.

Doha is a city of different faces, and as a result it’s difficult to get a good feel for it on such a quick visit. The old part of town contains a lot of low-level office blocks, many of which are being torn down and replaced with more modern structures. There are many vacant, rubble filled lots and buildings partially torn down. Across the bay is the new Doha, where gleaming skyscrapers are being put up at a dizzying pace. It is here that many of the city’s new luxury hotels are located. And then there is the area where my hotel is located, which has the look of North America suburbia with many western-style restaurants and shops.

Unlike Dubai, the government of Qatar has never been too interested in opening up the country to mass tourism. As a result, Doha doesn’t have a mature tourist infrastructure, so the options for tourists are limited. The government is keen; however, in attracting high-end tourism and will be looking to fill the many luxury resorts that will be opening in the coming months and years.

After sorting out my hotel fiasco, I jumped in a taxi and made for Souq Waqf, the old marketplace. Down narrow alleyways I came across merchants selling spices, perfumes, carpets, fabrics, and everyday household items. It was refreshingly cool deep inside the souq. Qatar is a more conservative country than Dubai, so virtually every woman I passed was swathed in what seemed like suffocating black cloaks. Old men using wheelbarrows would stand outside the shops lugging purchases and waiting for more to be stacked on top.

After I had crisscrossed the market several times, I ambled down to the Cornice, which runs along Doha Bay. It’s an attractive strip of road, lined with palms. The setting sun added to the ambience. Part way down the Corniche, I decided to cross the busy street and found myself stuck in the middle of a large roundabout. Unlike in Zurich, Switzerland, cars here don’t stop for pedestrians, regarding them more as a nuisance. Every time I tried stepping into the street another car came whizzing past. There were times I thought my life was going to end on a sun baked street in Doha. I wondered if I would have to spend the night on the roundabout before being able to cross the street. Finally there was a break and I bolted across.

I was drawn to a large mosque, which was silhouetted by the setting sun. I climbed up a small grassy bank and was about to take a picture when a security guard told me I couldn’t. Apparently it’s part of the Emir’s office. The guard told me it was like the White House and no one was allowed to take any photos. I didn’t have the heart to tell him that I have actually seen and photographed the White House. I even stuck my zoom lens through the fence at the U.S President's abode.

I carried on through the old part of town, which at this time of evening was overflowing with laborers socializing on street corners. I decided to try and walk back to my hotel. It’s hard to get a feel for a city sitting in the back of a taxi. I wasn’t exactly sure the streets I needed to take, but I started walking in the general direction. The sun had set, but the heat of the day still made the air thick. And my clothes were getting soaked from the sweat. I looked at my guidebook, which suggested I needed to find Salwa Road. Not sure where it was, I decided to ask at a petrol station. That’s where I met Nirijan, who is from Nepal and works at the station. I told him that big changes were happening in his country. He seemed happy that the King had been deposed, because the people were falling deeper into poverty, and he was more concerned with amassing more money. Nirijan’s family, including his wife and two children, still live in Nepal. He told me that there was no other alternative than working in Qatar. When I told Nirajan of my travels, he asked what stories I would write about Doha. I said maybe I would write about him. “Will it be in the Peninsula, he asked? The Peninsula is one Doha’s English newspapers. I told him I was writing for an international magazine. “We probably don’t get that magazine,” he offered. Probably not. He told me that it would take about an hour to walk to my hotel. When I sounded somewhat disappointed by his answer, he said maybe 30 minutes if I walked fast. We shook hands, and I wished him luck.

As I continued on, I took delight in my conversation with Nirijan. It was the kind of interaction I enjoy in foreign places. I labored on, still not sure, which road to turn down, but when I came to the Rydges Hotel, after having walked for about an hour, I knew I had gone too far. I dragged myself to the entrance and took a taxi back to my hotel.

This morning I took a city tour, which gave me some perspective on Doha. When I first arrived someone mentioned that Doha was bidding for the 2016 Summer Olympic Games. I almost laughed. But after spending a day or so here, I’ve come to think maybe it’s not such an absurd idea. The city lacks a lot of tourist infrastructure needed to host such a major sporting event, but they aren’t hosting the 2008 Games, and with the pace of development, the Doha of today will be much different than the Doha in 16 years. The city hosted the 2006 Asian Games and some modern sporting facilities have provided a legacy for the country. There also isn’t a shortage of money here, so if there’s a will anything can happen. If Doha is selected to host the 2016 Olympics, fewer people will be saying, “where in the world is Doha?”

Does your hotel have cold water?

Where in the world is Doha? For those not familiar with the Middle East that’s a good question. Doha is the capital of Qatar a thumb-like appendage sticking out into the Persian Gulf. Doha is a fast growing city, whose population, most of whom are expatriates, has more than doubled in the past 16 years. Much of Qatar’s wealth is generated from the oil and gas industry, although like neighbouring Dubai, the country is diversifying its economic interests.

I was met at Doha International Airport by Updesh Kapur, who works in corporate communications for Qatar Airways, and his charming daughter, Angel. Doha was the one place where I didn’t have any accommodation pre-arranged, so we drove into the city in search of a hotel. We first came to the Al-Muntazah Plaza, a budget hotel that offered a night’s accommodation for more than $200. Hotels don’t come cheap in this town. I did send an email to this hotel inquiring about availability, but I never received a reply. (What’s with people and businesses the world over not responding to emails. If you can’t or don’t want to respond to an email then don’t put one on your website—end of rant)

We were able to get the hotel to drop the rate to a bearable $150. Updesh invited me to join him and his daughter for lunch, so I went upstairs and dropped my bag in the room, and wanted to give my face a quick wash. I turned on the cold tap and hot water poured out. I waited a minute or two, but there was no change. You know it’s hot outside when hot water comes out the cold tap. I tried the shower to see if it was any difference. There wasn’t. I wondered how I was ever going to have a shower with only hot water.

I returned to the lobby and inquired if they have any cold water. The clerks both looked a little sheepish and then said that the water tank for the hotel is on the roof and it gets a bit hot. No kidding! They weren’t willing to lower their rate, so we decided to go for lunch and see if we could book another hotel.

We dined at the Mariott, which had a fabulous Friday afternoon buffet (Friday being like Sunday in other parts of the world). It was the most incredible spread I have ever seen. Numerous stations offering food from around the world were set up through the long hallway. As well, one could also choose from one of the hotel’s ethnically-themed restaurants. It would be easy to spend an entire day gorging on the delicious offerings. After a couple of plates each, we all decided to top it off with a dish of ice cream.

With our bellies full, we now turned our attention to finding a hotel. Updesh made a few calls, and Qatar Airways Holidays kindly arranged a room at the Ramada (a much nicer hotel than the Al-Muntazah) for almost the same price. We returned to the Al-Muntazah to collect my bags, but the hotel didn’t want to refund my money. A lively discussion ensued at which time the “manager”, or someone who claimed to be a manager, said that people should ask before checking-in if a hotel has cold water. This guy was for real. How ridiculous. Who would ever think to ask such a question? After more lively discussion, the hotel agreed to refund the amount paid (we’ll see if it shows on my visa statement).

I then checked into the Ramada. I didn’t ask if they had cold water, but I can indeed confirm that cold water does come out of their taps.

You'll feel like royalty at The Palace

In a city such as Dubai, it is not surprising that the number of 5-star hotels has nearly doubled in the past seven years. Last year, there were 43 such properties, and more are being built every year. In fact, the Burj Al Arab’s self-proclaimed 7-star status is the only hotel with that distinction in the world, but it will soon have company when another 7-star property is completed on Dubai’s Palm Jumeirah.

With so many high-end hotels, it is sometimes a challenge to find a unique property. Look no further than the Palace Hotel – The Old Town, which opened last October. The hotel sits in the heart of a developing Arabian village, and boasts an inviting Middle Eastern Theme. Few hotels can beat the entrance to the Palace. I felt like Aladdin, riding a magic carpet, as my taxi turned into the hotel’s entrance, and made the long drive to the front door. The scene at night with two rows of palms flanking a long pool is breathtaking.

No sooner than the taxi had stopped, someone was opening my door and welcoming me to the Palace, while another was unloading my bag. I felt like a Prince who had come home after a long journey. Once inside, check-in was done at a small desk, instead of an impersonal counter as is done in most hotels. While waiting for my room key, someone came by to offer a glass of juice. In the entrance of the lobby, a large bowl, filled with rose petals, overflowed with water. Beautiful Moroccan-style lamps hung above well appointed sofas. The large plasma television on the wall in my well appointed room contained a personalized welcome message.

The hotel is built around a large lake, and from the magnificent swimming pool you can see the Burj Dubai, the world’s tallest building towering above. While there is still much development, when completed the area will be a big draw for business and leisure visitors.

The Palace takes service to a new level, as every staff person I encountered warmly greeted me and asked if there was anything I needed. The hotel features three restaurants, one of which is available for breakfast. Guests can also choose to eat outside on the patio. If you need distressing, or just want to pamper yourself head to the hotel’s spa.

In a city where hotels are vying for attention, The Palace – The Old Town is a surprising and pleasant oasis. In fact, it is so comfortable that you might never want to leave.

photo courtesy of The Palace - The Old Town

A quick hop across the Gulf

The driver dropped me at Dubai’s Sheik Rashid Terminal, for my Qatar Airways flight to Doha. In total, passengers went through two security checks, once before check-in, and then another before proceeding to the departure gates. Security was fast and efficient, unlike the chaos that seems to ensue at some U.S. airports.

Despite having about five counters open for economy class passengers, check-in took about 20 minutes, which was the longest it has taken me during this trip. Despite flying economy class for this project, Qatar Airways provided me with me a pass to visit their business class lounge.

After completing immigration control, a considerable walk to the departure gates waits passengers, although we were helped with several moving walk-ways. It was the same process on arrival. Once at the departure gates, Dubai Duty Free takes over with a massive shopping experience—a t-shirt for my son, Jack, and a slab of chocolate, measuring 4 ft. x 6 ft. for my work colleagues.

I arrived at the gate about 10:30 am, an hour before our flight, and soon after boarding commenced. Once the stragglers boarded, the economy class cabin of the Airbus 330-300 was nearly full.

I had asked for a window seat, and unfortunately was seated in the bulkhead row. Not a fault of Qatar Airways, but I’m not fond of bulkhead seats, because of the limited leg room. The aircraft was relatively new and the seats were a pleasing maroon colour. Economy class seats were equipped with leg rests.

Before take-off a glass of water and candy was offered, something that few airlines do for economy class passengers. Score one for Qatar Airways. Our 11:30 scheduled departure came and went, with no reason given from the flight deck or cabin crew. The air bridge had been pulled away from the aircraft, so presumably we were waiting for some baggage/cargo to be loaded. It would have been nice if an announcement was made. With the outside temperature a sizzling 42 degrees (107 Fahrenheit), the inside of the aircraft was getting quite warm, while we waited at the gate.

A little more than 15 minutes late, we pushed back from gate 25. A short taxi took us to runway 30R, where we waited for three aircraft to land before lining up for our take-off roll.

Once airborne, the city was visible from the left side of the aircraft, and we passed over Dubai’s new mega development, The World, and in the distance, I saw the iconic Burj Al Arab and Palm Jumeirah through the hazy sky.

Dubai to Doha is a straight 238 mile, 43 minute hop across the Persian Gulf. The sign of a good airline is often how passengers are cared for on a short flight. It’s one thing to pamper passengers on a long haul flight, but yet another on a short flight. In the case of my 45 minute flight a few days ago from Kuala Lumpur to Singapore, Malaysia Airlines fell short of their 5-star distinction, as the service was surprisingly average. Sure, the flight attendants were friendly, but the only thing on offer was a glass of juice. There was not even a snack on offer considering the 8:00 am departure. Qatar Airways by contrast, not only offered water before take-off, but once in the air, we were offered a pre-packed sandwich of sorts that was surprisingly spicy and tasty, juice, and a cookie.

As we neared Doha, we banked over the new part of the city, which is experiencing rapid development, and lined up for an approach to runway 16. As we neared the airport, the pilot increased engine thrust and we started climbing. Excellent, I thought, my first go- around experience. The passengers seated next to me felt a little uneasy about this, but soon the Captain announced that we were coming in too high and too fast, and in the interested of safety decided to abort the landing. We banked out over the ocean, made another pass of the city, and then turned again toward the airport for a safe landing.

Doha airport, which in the next year or so will be replaced by a new, larger facility, has no air bridges. Passengers walk off the aircraft using the stairs and then are bused to the terminal. Economy class passengers exit via the rear of the aircraft, while first and business class at the front. There are two terminals at Doha, one exclusively for first and business class passengers (and visiting journalists traveling around the world), and the other for economy passengers.

Qatar Airways had arranged for the Al Maha meet and greet service, which is available to all passengers for a nominal fee. While a Qatar Airways representative attends to your passport and immigration needs, you can rest comfortably in a lounge with newspapers, magazines, and refreshments. First class passengers are also met, as I was, at the aircraft with a BMW and chauffeur. So this is what it is like to be the Emir, I thought, as I climbed into the car for the short drive to the terminal.

A representative also waited at the luggage carousel for my bag. Although sitting nearby felt oddly uncomfortable, as someone was picking up my luggage. Maybe first class passengers are accustomed to such service. Anyway, I told the representative that my bag was tan in colour, like the sand outside. I hated to watch him check every bag that came along.

Tomorrow I will experience Qatar Airway’s long-haul service with a flight to New York (Newark).